BBAC #21: Pain à l'Ancienne

After baking 20 bread recipes in The Bread Baker's Apprentice Challenge, I can honestly say Peter Reinhart is absolutely spot on when he says bread Number 21, Pain à l'Ancienne is one of the easiest doughs in the book to make. There is very little kneading involved, no shaping, no proofing, and scoring, which IMHO is almost futile anyway, is just an option. All you do is mix, refrigerate overnight, cut the dough into equal portions, elongate the pieces a little bit which is not hard to do, bake, and 20 minutes later, you will be enjoying a crispy [crust] sweetish light and airy most delicious bread you will ever have, at least to me it is. It is so good I can't stop eating it. This is currently my favorite bread from the book. Wait, didn't I just say that last week, and the week before last? Aack, I am starting to sound like a broken record! And there is a possibility that I will say the same thing the next 22 weeks.^__^

The slack dough uses ice-cold 40°F water and after mixing with flour, yeast, and salt, the dough is immediately stored in the refrigerator overnight. Peter explains that the delayed fermentation using ice-cold water produces a bread that "has a natural sweetness and nutlike character that is distinct from breads made from the same ingredients but fermented by the standard method, even with large percentages of pre-ferment". It has something to do with the natural sugars in flour but I won't go into details of the chemical reactions going on in this dough. The bread is delicious and it's all that matters.

Some of the loaves came out nice and straight but some are crooked and uneven which I like even better because of their rustic appearance. Adding to my delight are the irregular large holes in the crumb. Once again I am grateful to Nicole for this nifty idea of becoming Peter Reinhart's virtual apprentice and being able to bake great tasting loaves of bread. This is one recipe that I will be baking over and over. I actually baked a second batch the very next day and the result is consistent in flavor and texture, light airy crispy flavorful bread.

We didn't wait for the bread to cool because the loaves finished baking just in time for dinner. We spread aioli on the slices and had them with Green Bouillabaisse for a most satisfying vegetarian meal. This dough can also be shaped into ciabatta or focaccia which I will be making very soon.

Rating:
flavor 5
texture 5
visual appeal 5
ease of preparation 5

performance 5

worth 5
Total: 30
Average: 5

Multigrain Bread Extraordinaire

The Bread Baker's Apprentice Challenge week 20: Multigrain Bread Extraordinaire.

If you are like me who loves hearty chewy bread with a bit of crunch, then this is the loaf for you. The slices are very good as they are and utterly delicious toasted for sandwiches. I spread mayonnaise on the toasted slices, piled thick slices of heirloom tomatoes sprinkled with sea salt, and had the best and satisfying sandwich ever! Seriously. This bread is just perfect, in my honest opinion. I also love it for open-faced cucumber sandwich and with the slightly sour-sweet caramelly cheese mysost.

The bread I made is loaded with a soaker combination of polenta, millet, quinoa, rolled oats, and wheat bran, plus the cooked brown rice in the dough. There was too much dough for my loaf pan so I shaped the extra into 2.5-ounce buns. I then rolled the tops of the shaped loaf and buns in white poppy seeds.

The bread is chewy from all the various grains and high-gluten flour but the extra chew comes from the brown rice; and the crunch is from polenta, quinoa, and poppy seeds. The honey and dark brown sugar, which might be too much for some but for me it is just about right, and buttermilk contribute to the bread's overall flavor and yummyness. I love soft white milky breads but this easy to make extraordinary multigrain bread is an absolute keeper; another winning formula from Mr. Reinhart. Can you tell I have a new number one favorite bread recipe from the book?

to make the seeds stick on the unbaked dough, I spread them on the counter and pressing slightly, roll the tops of the shaped dough on the seeds

Rating:
flavor 5
texture 5
visual appeal 5
ease of preparation 5

performance 5

worth 5
Total: 30
Average: 5

BBAC 19: Marbled Rye Bread

roast beef and coleslaw

The Bread Baker's Apprentice Challenge 19: Marbled Rye Bread. This is one of my favorite breads in the book; not only does it remind me of one of my favorite Seinfeld episodes, The Rye, it is also very tasty and chewy. The toasted slices make the best pastrami or roast beef sandwich specially with a layer of coleslaw or sauerkraut.

Mixing and kneading is not too difficult but the dough has the tendency to dry while proofing and shaping so I make the dough a teensy bit more wet. I have a small bottle of liquid caramel but I prefer using powdered caramel because it makes the dough darker. And the most fun part I have in baking this bread is the shaping. I love the swirl shape but the marbled loaf is more fun because the slices come out with different patterns and therefore never boring.

Rating:
flavor 5
texture 5
visual appeal 5
ease of preparation 5
performance 5
worth 5
Total: 30
Average: 5

BBAC 18: Light Wheat Bread

There's nothing much to write about Light Wheat Bread, The Bread Baker's Apprentice Challenge 18th recipe. All I can say is it's another winner from Peter Reinhart. The bread is light as white bread, very soft, yummy [with added honey], and the recipe is one of the simplest and easiest to follow; mix, knead, let rise, shape/rise, bake. I love the slices toasted or right out of the bag.

with butter, honey, and fresh figs

Rating:
flavor 5
texture 5
visual appeal 5
ease of preparation 5
performance 5
worth 5
Total: 30
Average: 5

Note: The bread is very light in color because I used whole wheat atta flour which is lighter both in color and texture than KA and Gold Medal whole wheat flours. I am loving all the breads made with this flour and have been ignoring the KA whole wheat in my pantry. I buy atta from the Korean grocery store and it now stocks different brands that come from USA, Canada, India, and Lebanon; prices range between $10 and $12 for a 20-pound bag. Recently, I have noticed that atta flour is becoming more available in my area. I have spotted 20-pound bags at Wegmans grocery stores and Costco (the cheapest so far at $9).

Lavash Crackers

I've always wanted to make thin crispy crackers but the work involved discourages me from doing so. Besides, why bake when I can buy them cheap from the stores. However, The Bread Baker's Apprentice Challenge 17, Lavash Crackers, compelled me to bake them. I used to buy soft lavash before but I have never heard of lavash crackers. Well, now I have and can say that they are very yummy, super crunchy, and totally addicting. I love these crackers!

It was difficult at first to roll but after a few tries and letting the dough rest for 5 minutes between rolling as Peter suggests [and with a little bit of patience] I was able to roll the dough as thin as I wanted. I divided the dough into 3 portions because I wanted to use different toppings and found a smaller dough is easier to handle. I rolled the first one on the kitchen counter but when I transferred it to the parchment, the edges folded back into itself. I had to re-roll on the parchment paper which was very frustrating because the paper bunches up and won't stay put. I managed to keep the very thin dough and trimmed the folded edges which I twisted and made into bread sticks. Also very good. After that minor mishap I eliminated the step of transferring to the parchment and rolled the next pieces of dough directly on the pan. I think rolling the dough on an inverted pan or a cookie sheet without sides would be even more convenient and practical.

I did a combination of rolling, waving, and stretching to make the dough very thin

let the dough relax for easier handling

I rolled the first sheet really thin then sprinkled the top with sesame seeds. I passed a pastry roller on top of the dough a few times to embed the seeds so they don't fall off. Because I have a sweet tooth, I cut a small portion of the very thin dough and sprinkled coarse raw sugar on top, very very good with ice cream. The other 2 pieces of dough were rolled just thin enough but not as thin as the first one and I sprinkled one with flaked sea salt and ground sumac, and the other one with flaked sea salt and chipotle powder. I didn't want to add strong flavors like cumin nor strong colors that stain like paprika so I stayed away from those. I'm satisfied with these two flavors which are mild but very tasty. Both came out very crispy all throughout without any soft spots.

I will definitely make these crackers again and for a yummy healthy crunchy snack I will substitute chickpea flour for some of the flour. And with this experience I have gained enough confidence and will try rolling out thin dough such as strudel or filo. This is why I love this challenge, I learn and eat something new every week.

topped with sesame seeds

topped with coarse raw sugar

with flaked sea salt and ground sumac

perfect with chili

Rating:
flavor 5
texture 5
visual appeal 5
ease of preparation 4
performance 5
worth 5
Total: 29
Average: 4.8

BBAC And The Washington Post

The Bread Bakers' Apprentice Challenge is one of the featured virtual baking/cooking clubs in this week's Food Section of The Washington Post. You can read the full article here written by one of us BBAC bakers, A Tiger In The Kitchen.

A photo collage of baked goodies from 8 BBAC bakers are included on the front page of the section, the shortened version here is from their website, and there are several larger beautiful photos of breads inside the pages.

The Bread Baker's Apprentice Challenge is created by Nicole of Pinch My Salt.

Kaiser Rolls And Smoked Home Cured Bacon

The Bread Baker's Apprentice Challenge 16: Kaiser Rolls.

I can't remember the last time I bought these sandwich rolls which used to be a favorite in our house. I have forgotten about them after I started baking all of our bread almost two years ago. I never thought they would be so much fun to make and they're very yummy too. I love its chew and the crunch of the crust when toasted, excellent for BLT or simply smeared with whipped cream cheese.

The dough is very easy to work with but shaping the rolls using the traditional folding method takes a bit of practice. After the shaped pieces have risen for 10 minutes I had to re-shape them because the design disappeared. I remedied that by dusting the bottoms with lots of rye flour and pressing harder in-between folds. Sorry I didn't take photos of the process but you can watch this [rather fuzzy] video of a baker applying karate chops on the dough.

I folded 4 of the rolls and the other 5 dough balls I shaped into knotted ropes. I like the looks of the baked folded rolls better, they are prettier, more rounded and even. Two of the knotted rolls were misshapen, they came out sort of oval-triangular and one has a slight bump on one side. I don't know if I should get a stamp for easier and faster shaping next time I make these, all you do is shape into rounds and press. The stamp also retains the round shape of the rolls. On the other hand, I love the rustic appearance of the rolls.

folded

knotted

Although I love poppy and sesame seeds, I didn't bother to top the rolls because they will just fall off and get scattered all over when they are sliced. I also prefer the clean look of the rolls without them.

For my first taste of the roll, I fried thick slices of home cured bacon, sliced yellow tomatoes from my garden, and baby romaine lettuce. Simply delicious! I could have this everyday for lunch. Okay, maybe not the bacon.^__^

bacon, lettuce, and tomato

drool worthy

Rating:
flavor 5
texture 5
visual appeal 5
ease of preparation 5
performance 5
worth 5
Total: 30
Average: 5

Here's my recipe for smoked home cured bacon. It's very rare to find where I live whole slabs of pork belly so I used thick pieces instead. I used Twinings® lapsang souchong tea available at most grocery stores. The tea gives a smokey flavor without being overwhelming. Soaked applewood chips are also very good with bacon.

Smoked Home Cured Bacon
three 1½-inch thick pieces of skinless pork belly
3 tablespoons dry cure (mixture of 1 pound kosher salt, 8 pounds of sugar, and 2 ounces of pink salt, recipe from CHARCUTERIE by Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polcyn)
2 tablespoons maple sugar crystals or syrup
¼ teaspoon garlic powder
6 lapsang souchong teabags
aluminum disposable deep roasting pan and small metal rack

• Mix the dry cure, maple sugar, and garlic powder. Spread the cure on the pork belly evenly. Place the pork pieces in a gallon freezer bag and refrigerate for 5 days, turning the bag every day to cure evenly.
• Rinse pork under running water and pat dry with paper towels. Open the teabags and place all the loose tea leaves in the middle of the roasting pan, discard the bags. Place the rack on the pan and the pan on top of the stove. Turn the heat to the lowest setting, place the pork on the rack, cover tightly with aluminum foil and smoke for 1 hour. Remove the pork, let cool, and store in the freezer. Slice and fry until crispy.

the best part of the fried bacon is the silky crispy melt-in-your mouth fat

The Bread Baker's Apprentice Challenge 15: Italian Bread

After eating a few slices, I think I may have found our daily bread, it's The Bread Baker's Apprentice Challenge recipe 15, Italian Bread. I love everything about it, from the wonderful aroma to the slightly chewy crust and soft [milky] chewy moist delicious sweetish crumb, this is the perfect everyday breakfast or sandwich bread.

Although it takes 2 days, most of it while the biga is resting in the refrigerator, the whole baking process including shaping is super easy. I will tweak and experiment with this recipe perhaps using sourdough starter along with instant yeast, and maybe adding a little whole wheat or rye flour. I'll be making it regularly with or without milk until I get tired of it or another superb recipe comes along. For now, this is my favorite bread.

I was never interested in baking Italian bread before because the loaves I've had from grocery stores and bakeries were bland and the crumb dry and fluffy. Thanks again Nicole for creating this challenge because I never would have tried baking it on my own and would not have known that homemade Italian Bread is so very yummy.

I made six 4-ounce hoagie rolls and the rest of the dough into a 14-inch loaf. The rolls and loaf both had good oven spring.

Italian meatballs on a top-split hoagie roll, yum yum

Rating:
flavor 5
texture 5
visual appeal 5
ease of preparation 5
performance 5
worth 5
Total: 30
Average: 5

The Bread Baker's Apprentice Challenge 14: French Bread

The Bread Baker's Apprentice Challenge 14: French Bread. This is the first BBA bread I baked a few years back. The recipe is not perfect by all means because the loaves it makes do not have the much preferred and coveted open crumb. But I come back to this recipe often because I love that it is flavorful, preparation is super easy and uncomplicated, and sometimes I want a more tender tighter crumb usually to make into French Toast. In my opinion this recipe not only makes the best French Toast but the best croutons and garlic bread as well. In other words I love this bread, tight crumb and all.

I could have baked a more open crumbed French bread by altering the method, for example, applying the French fold instead of kneading, or any other methods available online or in baking books. But that would mean NOT following the recipe as written which IMHO would defeat the purpose of this challenge.

the loaf may not have a more open crumb


but it makes the yummiest French Toast

Rating:
flavor 5
texture 4
visual appeal 5
ease of preparation 5
performance 5
worth 5
Total: 29
Average: 4.86

For comparison this is PR's no-knead stretch-and-fold slack dough French bread recipe which makes delicious baguettes that have a more open crumb and thin crispy crust. The recipe requires half the time and effort as the BBA's. The recipe will be in his upcoming book Artisan Breads Everyday to be released end of October 2009.

The Bread Baker's Apprentice Challenge 13: Focaccia

I was eager to bake Focaccia, 13th recipe in The Bread Baker's Apprentice Challenge but I was sort of disappointed after slicing the bread. Although very yummy and the crust crispy, I find the crumb, which has irregular large and medium air pockets, oddly soft and airy. I prefer very chewy focaccia and the crumb of this focaccia definitely is not, at least to me it isn't.

I don't know where I did wrong because I followed the recipe (using bread flour) accordingly, did not change any of the ingredients or procedure except I baked them pizza-style in round pans. I used 8 ounces of dough in 8-inch pans and 10 ounces in 9-inch pans and they baked to the perfect thickness of 1½ inches. On a positive note, I love the herbed oil and will use it again with different herb combination but I don't think I'll follow this dough recipe next time I make focaccia.

Here is a better recipe, also from Peter Reinhart.

topped with cherry tomatoes (from my garden), caramelized Vidalia onions, and sea salt

I will slice this one horizontally to make into a gigantic sandwich

Rating:
flavor 4
texture 2
visual appeal 5
ease of preparation 5
performance 4
worth 1
Total: 21
Average: 3.5

The Bread Baker's Apprentice Challenge 12: English Muffins

The recipe for English Muffins, the 12th in The Bread Baker's Apprentice Challenge is very different from the recipes I use for making English muffins. Those recipes including PR's test recipe have the consistency of thick pancake batter which cannot be shaped into balls or they will spread out all over the place. The batter is measured and poured into crumpet rings set on a preheated griddle. Baking soda mixed with water is added just before cooking the muffins which helps create the must have sponge-like "nooks and crannies" for an authentic looking English Muffins. Without the holes the muffins will just be an ordinary flat round white bread. This Alton Brown's recipe which I still have to try looks okay but has a very short rising period.

I was reluctant to make the BBA's English muffins knowing I will be disappointed if they come out without air pockets. I decided to make it into a loaf which the book says is an option. I used whole wheat Indian-type ATTA flour for all of the flour. Atta flour has a slightly higher protein content than bread flour. I got the atta flour, which is grown and milled right here in the US, from a Korean grocery store. After shaping the dough into a loaf I rolled it on fine corn meal and sprinkled some more on top.

It was a pleasant surprise to find that the bread slices have nooks and crannies with soft but chewy flavorful crumb, and the crust is crunchy when toasted and therefore have the same qualities of really good English muffins. I'm not sure if the flour had anything to do with the texture and flavor but I will make this loaf again when I feel like whole wheat-y English muffins or when I get the munchies for Sausage Egg Muffin Sandwich.

look at all the nooks and crannies to catch all the creamy raw honey or butter

better than you-know-where Sausage Egg McMuffin

Rating (whole wheat):
flavor 4
texture 4
visual appeal 4
ease of preparation 4
performance 4
worth 4
Total: 24
Average: 4

I felt I was being unfair for prejudging the recipe just by reading it. After a few days I made the round ones and just as I thought, the muffins don't have air pockets, are very soft like white bread and not chewy at all. I actually like the rolls, they are very tasty but I won't call them English muffins.

too soft and fine-crumbed

Rating (rounds)
flavor 4
texture 1
visual appeal 3
ease of preparation 4
performance 3
worth 1
Total: 16
Average: 2.66

The Bread Baker's Apprentice Challenge 11: Cranberry-Walnut Celebration Bread

The Bread Bakers' Apprentice Challenge recipe 11: Cranberry-Walnut Celebration Bread. One bite of this bread and I thought to myself: Didn't I make this already? Oh yeah, Artos and Challah. I am convinced CranWaltCeleBread is the result of the marriage of these two.^__^

Although I love this cranberry and walnut overload bread specially when toasted and buttered, I am having a little bit of "celebration" fatigue and eager to move on to the salty crusty breads. I froze one half of the loaf so I can make the next recipe, English Muffins and then on to Focaccia, yay!

Rating:
flavor 4
texture 4
visual appeal 3
ease of preparation 4
performance 4
worth 4
Total: 23
Average: 3.8

Corn Bread

they look like corn on the cob

The Bread Baker's Apprentice Challenge is almost 2 months old and I am finished baking the 10th recipe, Corn Bread. I made it the other Saturday for our 4th of July barbecue dinner and we all loved it, and we don't normally like corn bread! PR's recipe is not the typical corn bread from the south because it has wheat flour, fresh corn, and loads of sweet stuff: white and brown sugar and honey. I halved the sugar and honey because I don't like overly sweet corn bread. They came out just sweet enough with the addition of the extra sweet yellow/white corn that I used. I prefer it saltier and I will add a pinch more of salt next time I make these. I really enjoyed the crunch of the polenta and the fresh corn; this corn bread is superior to the ones I have previously tasted. Better yet, I am declaring this is the bestest corn bread, ever! Thank you Peter for including this baking powder and baking soda bread in the book.

fresh corn is best

I baked some of the corn bread in a cast iron mold that has 7 slots shaped like corn. I sprinkled the bottom with chopped bacon to make them visible after unmolding. The corn molds are small, shallow, and can hold only 2 tablespoons of batter but they are so cute and fun to serve and eat. I baked the rest of the batter in unlined regular-size muffin pans. If you are baking these in muffin pans, use cupcake liners or line the bottoms with parchment because they stick to the bottom and it is difficult removing them from the pan. I also increased the heat to 400°F because the bread would not brown enough, specially the ones baked in the cast iron pan.

chewy crunchy polenta corn grits, crunchy sweet fresh corn, and salty bacon, yum!

the corn bread looks so cute beside the real thing

Rating:
flavor 5
texture 5
visual appeal 5
ease of preparation 5
performance 5
worth 5
Total: 30
Average: 5